Mushroom Bolognese

This dish—while a capable substitute for classic Bolognese—is not just for vegetarians. In fact, it’s an excellent stand-in for anyone interested in eating a little less meat without sacrificing flavor. Roasting brings out the true brown flavors of these fungi. Will you miss the meat? Not even a little.

Ingredients:

• 1 pound cremini mushrooms, sliced
• 1/2 pound wild mushroom mix
• 1/2 pound white button mushrooms, sliced
• 7 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, divided
• Kosher salt, to taste
• Freshly ground black pepper, to taste
• 1 medium to large carrot, roughly chopped
• 1 medium white onion, roughly chopped
• 1 clove garlic, sliced
• 1 stalk celery, roughly chopped
• 2 tablespoons tomato paste
• 1 teaspoon minced rosemary
• 1 teaspoon dried oregano
• 1 cup dry red wine
• 1 cup whole milk
• 1 whole nutmeg
• 1 cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese, plus more for serving
• 2 tablespoons unsalted butter
• 1 1/2 pounds rigatoni, cooked al dente